Which is how I have somehow or another ended up in heaven. Or Italy. Whatever. It is pretty much the same to me. If God makes heaven individual for each of us, mine will look like Tuscany. I promise there is no place more beautiful on the entire earth.
Flying was an adventure, as always…. When we landed in Atlanta—my cousin Ben and I—there was a rather untroubled mother literally dragging two screaming children both under the age of six by those monkey-backpack-leash things (think Claire-and-Zane jokes). The two children were both bawling and shrieking and throwing things and sitting down and jerking away; it was like a circus. Then we almost missed our flight because of eating Chili’s Too—we wanted a good “last supper,” per se—and then had a longish lay-over in JFK—three hours—where we got to meet some other members of the group, and then the long and never-ending eight hour flight to Pisa (which was actually an hour early due to the strong tail wind). I slept maybe thirty minutes at the beginning, and that was it, despite gratuitous Benadryl usage. I’m not even sure what I did for all that time—read, wrote, listened to music, worked on a bracelet, stared out the window (ocean and clouds are good for zoning out), watched parts of Hotel for Dogs without the sound on (I don’t think the sound would have made it much better). Then we finally landed, and as we banked into Pisa and the Italian countryside and not-quite-mountains-but-not-really-hills came into view, I barely kept myself from starting to cry—partly from relief that that miserably long flight was finally over (the guy in front of me kept his seat leaned back the entire way, which I’m pretty sure is God’s way of making me thankful just to be going and not to worry about the extras… though all in retrospect; at the time I was not at all happy), but mostly because it was like coming home to somewhere that isn’t really home, but really is, in another strange way.
I didn’t really experience the holy-crap-I’m-in-Italy-but-it-is-just-so-unbelievable-that-I-am-not-processing-it like I did last summer. Maybe this is because I have been looking forward to it so much that half my heart has been here in Firenze and Scandicci for about six months anyway. Also, I read most of Chasing Francis on the way here, which is set in Tuscany, so I felt like I was already here in a way. Reading does that.
Then it was across the countryside and me drinking in every ounce of it in my sleep-deprived-but-not-tired-yet-because-my-body-didn’t-and-still-doesn’t-have-any-clue-what-time-it’s-supposed-to-be state of being. One of the weirdest parts of it, I think, is that even in Italy they have things like—I don’t know why this struck me so oddly—but places where there’s no grass because of whatever reason, equipment or foot traffic, places where the reddish earth is just exposed. To me that’s real, not the fantasy-land I sometimes make Italy out to be. But it’s not a fantasyland, not Narnia or Middle Earth, it’s real—you can actually go there, you can actually be there, you can live it!
And the villa—oh. It’s perfect. I honestly cannot imagine anything better. I was somewhat skeptical, because I couldn’t tell much from the pictures, but in truth, “Il Palazzaccio,” which according to the Harding website means “The Ugly Building,” is splendid to the inth degree. You can tell it was built in the fourteen hundreds—the layout makes no sense whatsoever, with crazy uneven, ancient staircases winding into each other and apart again and sometimes nowhere at all, rooms stuck here and there on different, random levels three feet different from each other, red tile floors and high wooden-beamed ceilings on the first floor with soaring archways and tapestries on the walls, toilets that you need a masters in plumbing to be able to operate, the olive grove with its hammocks and swings, roses climbing up the walls, a veranda, a balcony, and I think best of all, screenless windows that open to the most spectacular views you can imagine. People would pay exorbitant amounts of money for this kind of view. You can literally see the top of the Duomo peaking over a ridge from one of the windows in the dorm I’m sharing with six other girls, and around that, the entire Florentine valley spread out like a carpet. Right now, since it’s night (well, it’s dark outside, who knows what my internal clock actually thinks), it’s like God shook the sky out like a giant throw-rug and half the stars fell out into the plain, and they’re all glittering like thousands of orangy-golden, white-blue diamonds in the intricate pattern of the city and its outlying suburbs. Behind us, the infamous hill (which actually wasn’t bad at all) continues up into a larger hill-mountain, covered in umbrella pines and Roman pines and olive trees and other trees I don’t know the names of, but everything is lush and verdantly green in a thousand different shades, the grass and the bushes and the leaves and the terracotta roof tiles and all the new bird sounds (Zane, you’d love it—I don’t recognize half the sounds these crazy birds are making) and cars honking as they zoom crazy-Italian style up the tiny narrow hill street…. Although a lot of people went into Scandicci, the suburb (which is still magnificent and undeniably Italian) just outside of which the villa is located, and Florence, I stayed at the villa, first off because I am exhausted and want to be able to function tomorrow, and secondly because I just wanted to absorb what was right there, at my own pace, in my own time.
*sospiro* Mia bella Italia. (“Sospiro” means “sigh.”) I’m even starting to pick up the cadences of the language, just in a day of hearing it (there were Italians sitting next to us on the plane). It’s beautiful, too, just like the country, even moreso than Spanish, which I love. It’s almost like they’re singing, or doing a play, so animated and alive and lilting and throaty….
Okay. I probably sound like I’m having some kind of deep revelatory reverie, and maybe I am, but I don’t want you to overdose on my obsession or think I’ve completely lost my mind. But I just want you to feel an ounce, just an ounce (or should I say a milligram?), of what I feel here, of how beautiful it is and how somehow the landscape of this incredibly beautiful, rich land resonates with the deepest level of who I am, like perhaps when God was making my soul he used the wine from the vineyards for my blood and the dust from the streets of Florence for my body and the cadences of the Italian language for my spirit.
Maybe I’ll meet the ghost of Dante in some back alley of Firenze. Though you guys probably hope I don’t, because first off this run-on-sentence-stuffed-with-romantic-description manner of writing would only get ten times worse, and secondly because that would mean I’m probably never going to leave.
Three months. I think I’ve fallen into the mirror of heaven.